True Sake and Sakaya

I am so thankful to all the great local wine shops and Asian markets around the Carolinas that carry "true" high quality Japanese sakes I've found on my journey over the past two years here in my native American South, as we now know we're "Not Alone".  

I've met incredible people like James Voltz who operates The Raleigh Wine Shop, Mr. Forrest who manages the sake department at The Grand Asian Market (in Charlotte), Master Chef Masa of Waraji Restaurant (here in Raleigh); Waraji is the true oasis of North Carolina sake (http://www.warajijapaneserestaurant.com/about/)  

I have some very special posts planned in their dedication.

Locating, highlighting, and supporting local places around the Carolinas that carry high quality sakes is the main goal of this blog.  But I would also like to highlight a few places online where you can order rare sometimes hard to find sakes and while they’re not exactly local to us, they are still helping bring “True” sake to America and they offer online orders.

True Sake in San Francisco and Sakaya in NYC are prime examples of passionate sake merchants who operate “Sake Only” stores here in the US.  They’re both operated by very special folks, experts in sake, and eager to make sake more widely understood, available, and popular.  Check them out at their digital store fronts!

 Sakaya

 324 East 9th Street 

New York, NY 10003 

http://www.sakayanyc.com/

True Sake

560 HAYES ST. 

SAN FRANCISCO, CA 94102

http://www.truesake.com/

-Brad Russell

Raleigh Sake Hotspot- Seaboard Wine & Tasting Bar @ Seaboard Station

   

(click to enlarge)

     It’s never a good idea to judge things by their outside appearance, this however is not the case with Seaboard Wine.

     

     It’s remarkably beautiful store front matches the kindness and charm of what you’ll find inside; a friendly staff and a cozy wonderful environment filled with over 2000 (!) different wines and of course one of the city’s best Sake selections.

     

     They’re also the cities longest running independent wine store, they’re celebrating their 16^th year of operation.

     

     Let’s get to the Sake!  They keep a nice selection representing a good variety of types, grades, regions, and flavor profiles.  The selection changes every couple of months so it's always fun to stop in and see what’s in stock.

(click to enlarge)

(a few recommendations from this current selection: the Sparkling Diaginjo, Bride of The Fox, Snow Shadow, One Cup, Coy, Diving Droplets)

     What really sets them apart however is their quality of customer service and willingness to put up with my sometimes odd Sake requests for special order.  I've encountered a much different attitude from especially the big-box wine stores and even some of the other small independent wine shops were sometimes you can get a sense that while they may carry some Sake, they really couldn't care less about it much less go through the task of contacting their suppliers and seeing if they can track down a special bottle for you.

    To Emma and Jenn and the rest of the Seaboard Wine staff, thanks for always making a Sake customer feel welcome in a wine shop and entertaining our special Sake requests!

Check out Seaboard Wine and Tasting Bar for yourself at-

http://www.seaboardwine.com/

802 Semart Drive, Suite 118

Raleigh, NC 27604

-Brad Russell

Top Sake Misconceptions

Sake’s served HOT right?

NO.  

     High-end sake is typically served chilled or at room temperature.  Japan has several climates, it’s an island for one thing which always makes the weather interesting and dramatic but some of Japan’s northern prefectures are quite cold and get incredible amounts of snowfall!

Say Hello to Hokkaido! 

     There are indeed sakes brewed specifically to be heated and served in the cold winter, but for the most the answer is NO. 

Sake’s very high in alcohol content, like hard booze right?

NOPE.  

     When most people envision a sake glass they conjure up a small white cup similar to a shot glass.  These images along with some sakes (and sake drinkers) that can and do enjoy drinking their sake in a “shooter” style of consumption have led to this misconception.

      Sakes are for the most part about as high in alcohol content as wine; however some are even much lower than hoppy IPA style beers or light white wines.  There are “Genshu” sakes (undiluted) sakes were the brewers don't add additional water- these can get up to the 16%-20% alcohol content similar to a dessert wine. 

     So again NO, it’s not hard booze, and high end sake is not to be “slammed” back- rather poured into a nice big glass, swirled around, sniffed, and sipped; enjoyed just like fine wine.

Sake’s expensive, only for fine dining, and for $$$ folks, or older folks, right?

YES(NO)   

     High-end sake can be expensive but that being said expensive might not be the right word.  There’s a very broad range.

     First off you can buy most sake in either a small 300ml bottle or in a 720ml bottle (the size of a standard bottle of wine).  You can also get sakes and a whole hell of a lot of people do in Japan in tiny 200ml cans and bottles from vending machines! 

     So you can try the best of the best for less than $20-$30 in a smaller bottle, or you can have a fantastic larger sized bottle of a Junmai or a Ginjo for under $30 as well.  You can also get a can of Kikusui Nama for $6(!), a Genshu (the unfiltered) and it’s a delicious sake: you're going to have a very lovely tasting sweet sake and get a nice wonderful little sake buzz for $6!

    People get sake for fun, for parties, to drink at a baseball game, maybe grab a One Cup before their long train commute home to make it a little more tolerable, and again this is not “PBR” relative in quality- Kikusui Nama is delicious it’s just not pretentious and you can rock it in a little can!    

     Sake has sadly become more considered “granddads” drink of choice in Japan.  But the industry is evolving, sparkling and flavored sakes are increasingly popular, and Americans are now the number one importer of sake around the world, I believe this shifting tide will continue.  Sake breweries are tapping into the US market with fancy bottle designs, tastings, social media, and merchants are beginning to start carrying them in their specialty beverage shops more and more. 

Sake is only good with Sushi, right?

NO.  Just no.   

     That’s insane.  I recently had a glass of Wakatake Daiginjo with a plate of Memphis style dry rubbed ribs and collard greens- it was great!  No harm done!  You neither have to love or hate sushi to love or hate sake, remember there are on estimate 15,000 different sakes produced in Japan, they have a vast variety of flavors so trust me- there’s one out there to pair well with a cheeseburger, a slice of pizza, a salad, or a bag of peanuts. 

Beau Timken Races Into Action To Combat This Misconception!

Article Link

(great read)

Sake is only available at Sushi restaurants right and Asian Markets?

Nope. 

     You'd be surprised (taking note that this is Carolina centric blog, on the west coast this probably doesn't apply) how few Asian markets even carry sake.  I've had so many owners of these fascinating little shops tell me, “Try Total Wine...”; too many to count.   

     

     Some Harris Teeters carry some decent standards, Hakutsuru Junmai, Ozeki Dry (these are $8~9, not a great sake but decent for sake slummin'); I saw a bottle of Hakutsuru Junmai Ginjo at a Piggly Wiggly in South Carolina!  I would avoid however, if your grocery store carries just one green bottle of “Ozeki” or “Gekkeikan”- those are mainly for cooking and not a good first sake engagement.  “Total Wine” they carry a lot of American produced sake but I'm not a big fan, it’s more expensive than it’s cheaper Japanese bottom line sakes and not as good (Sake Ones G, is pretty good- Whole Foods and World Market's carry it).  BUT I digress, this blog will show you NC/SC folks were to find the good stuff, that’s the whole point!

Some More Misconceptions and Interesting Sake Facts

     Sake’s Gluten Free! *For the most part

     High-end/decent sake is gluten free.  As long as it’s a Junmai, a Junmai Ginjo, or a Junmai Daiginjo its gluten free!  Water+Rice+Mold(Koji)= No Gluten.   (sulfite free, and kosher as well)

     Sake is a great low calorie mixer for a variety of cocktails; it also has a lot less calories than beer proportionality.

     Sake is “Rice Wine”- it’s not.  It’s brewed like beer.  I always say, brewed like beer, enjoyed like wine. 

    Sake Lasts!  Unlike beer or white wine, you can open a bottle of sake and keep it in your fridge for 2 weeks and it will stay delicious!  

     Sudo Honke (須藤 本家 Sudō Honke) is a Japanese manufacturer of sake based in Obara, a settlement in the present borders of Kasama, and one of the original settlements of Ibaraki Prefecture. Founded in 1141 and run by the 55th generation of the Sudo family, it is the oldest sake brewery in Japan and one of the oldest companies in the world.  *http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sudo_Honke

-Brad Russell  

ありがとう Tiffany Soto!

I want to sincerely and humbly thank Tiffany Soto, Ultimate Sake Master and educator, for referring her readers and followers to my modest blog here dedicated to finding great Sake in the Carolinas.

She is a renowned expert and that’s putting it lightly. 

Very much looking forward to attending her Sake 101 class in Baltimore, where she currently educates at -http://www.fourseasons.com/baltimore/dining/restaurants/pabu/

If you would like to know more about her prestigious career in the Sake/Beverage field check out the following link or your welcome to hitch a ride with me this fall to attend one of her courses!

http://pabuizakaya.com/people/tiffany-dawn-soto/

And again,

ありがとう

(Arigatō)

Tiffany!  

-Brad Russell

  

Raleigh Sake Hotspot- Yard House Restaurant @ North Hills

    Next door to our other recent Raleigh Sake Hotspot, "Cowfish Burger", is the also extremely popular Yard House!  This place is POPULAR.

   Especially on the weekends, but did you know they also have a limited but fantastic Sake section in their beverages menu?  This place has more beers on tap than you could imagine but I would encourage you to try a bottle of "Yuki No Bosha" (Cabin In The Snow) Junmai Ginjo.

   This is one of my all time, top 5 favorite Sakes.  It's just perfect.  Perfect for a first timer or the experienced Sake drinker.

    A lot of Raleigh natives will be dining at Yard House at North Hills this weekend and this is a great Summer Sake, it's cold, sweet, smooth, and expensive.  I will preempt your sticker shock.  It's $30 for a 300ml bottle...  But Keep The Bottle!  It's less filling, has less calories than beer, and may just make you into a Sake fanatic, it's that good.

   They also offer a Nigori from Tozai (this is not for the beginner and I wouldn't recommend it).  They also offer a Daiginjo- Pure Dusk; it's way over hyped and way overpriced but decent.  Very pretty bottle.

  They have a nice cheap little Jumani called Beautiful Lilly; not bad at all!  You can also order "Sake Bomb", they give you a decent size glass of Beautiful Lilly and a nice little glass of Sapporo!  Don't mix as intended, rather enjoy both individually for $7!  It's a steal.   But really, buy the Cabin In The Snow, it's as good as it gets.

  And as always, Thanks to Yard House for offering great True Sakes, their food is also fantastic.

  Quick Summer Sake Hotspot Weekend Recommendation post for Raleigh readers, but to all:  Cabin In The Snow is an EXCELLENT Sake.

Review from "Rate Beer"

Address: 4208 Six Forks Rd, Raleigh, NC 27609

Phone:(919) 881-2590

Hours:

 

Friday hours 11:00 am–1:30 am

Charlotte & Raleigh Sake Hotspot- "The Cowfish Sushi Burger Bar"

Thursdays Sake is 1/2 Priced!

    "The Cowfish Sushi Burger Bar"; were to start?  As the name implies this is a complex and rather confused place.  I believe there are just two locations, the original in Charlotte and now they've opened in Raleigh.

    More importantly however-  Thursdays they offer their entire Sake selection at Half Price!  Which is quite the deal and they have a good selection, further proof of what hopes to be a coming trend.

(From their website, I cannot guarantee both locations offer all of these, I'm going to highlight my recommendations in BLUE)

Gingo Premier

375 ml bottle  19   

Fruity flavor and a flowery aroma, served chilled

Horin Ultra Premium Daigingo – Liquid Gold

250 ml bottle  40   

The crowned jewel known to bring good fortune, a must have for the special occasion, served chilled

Kanbara – Bride Of The Fox

300 ml bottle  26   

Intense aromas of grilled nuts, pistachio, and a hint of cocoa, served chilled

Karatamba

300 ml bottle  17   

Medium bodied with a clear, dry taste, served chilled

Mukune Gingo – Root Of Innocence

300 ml bottle  29   

Mellow and dry, rich flavor to finish, served chilled

Nanbu Bijin – Southern Beauty

300 ml bottle  28   

Elegant and soft fragrance, flavor of pears and grapes, served chilled

Ozeki Yamadanishiki

300 ml bottle  16   

Full bodied taste with aromas of the finest rice, served chilled

Rihaku Junmai – Wandering Poet  (Wonderful name, lots of people enjoy, not a great starter bottle, and not one of my personal favorites but very popular)

300 ml bottle  26   

Well-rounded flavor, drink a bottle and write a hundred poems, served chilled

Rihaku Nigori – Dreamy Clouds

300 ml bottle  24   

Bright and mouth watering sweet, aromas of ripe, red plums, served chilled

Sho Chiku Bai Gingo – The Hummingbird

300 ml bottle  26   

Deep aroma and rich flavor of premium rice, served chilled

Sho Chiku Bai Nigori – Silky Mild

375 ml bottle  17   

Bold and sweet, pairs well with rich and spicy dishes, served chilled

Takasago Ginga Shizuku – Divine Droplets

300 ml bottle  38   

Ultra premium with the freshest, cleanest taste, served chilled

Tentaka Kuni – Hawk In The Heavens (I haven't tried it but it's supposed to be excellent)

300 ml bottle  21   

Well-rounded, dry with underlying richness, served chilled

Tozai Nigori- The Snow Maiden

300 ml bottle  24   

Nutty and creamy, with bright fresh aromas. Mellow and easy to drink, served chilled

Zipang Sparkling Sake

250 ml bottle  17   

Bright hints of tropical fruit, with a refreshingly light finish, served chilled

     Divine Droplets is an extremely good Sake, it's also extremely expensive so this is a great opportunity to try it (maybe not the perfect "first" Sake).  I'll have an entire post about Divine Droplets, it's made in Japan's northernmost prefecture Hokkaido in an igloo!  Check it out!  (Bride of The Fox and Southern Beauty are also wonderful bottles, and great "first" Sakes, Karatamba is a great first Honjozo by the way)

     The menu is exhaustingly long, the sushi is good (not great) but they have a ton of variety.  I did get off a pretty good photo last time I was in there (by the way the relatively new Raleigh location now is incredibly popular so get there early, and here's a TIP- sit at the bar to avoid the sometimes hour long waits)

One more, and thanks to Cowfish Burger for offering up such a great deal to get people to try great "True" Sake!

thecowfish.com‎

4208 Six Forks Road #100

Raleigh, NC 27609

(919) 784-0400

4310 Sharon Road

Charlotte, NC 28211

(704) 365-1922

-Brad Russell

"Different Strokes for Different Folks", "Variety Is The Spice Of Life" and "Sometimes Less is More"

     Lastly, before we finally get to the point which is delving into North Carolina's Sake hideouts, let's take a minute to talk about the danger of getting caught up or confused in the number and class system that comes with our sought after beverage.  

Sake, as we've mentioned comes in many varieties, classifications, etc...  Mainly it is broken into categories of "Quality", "Acidity", and by "SMV" (Sake Meter Value).

Let's just briefly go over these, appreciate them, and then dismiss them.

     It's very handy that a lot of Japanese Sake breweries (and American ones; American Sake is by the way mainly produced in Portland and San Francisco) print on their labels the "SMV" and "Acidity level" of the Sake to hopefully identify a flavor profile.

(For example, Dassai 50 from the Dassai Brewery in Yamaguchi)

      It's meant to be helpful but it is by no means gospel or a perfect science.  Here are the basics-


SMV:    (how much sugar remains)  It generally ranges at it's most extremes from say anywhere between a value of -30 all the way up to 10.  Simply put, the "the Higher the Drier" and thus the lower the sweeter.  Anything below zero is sweet, anything further below that is very sweet and vice versa for "dry".  Most Sake lives somewhere in the middle (and again it's not like if you find a Sake that has a SMV of 4 you're going to like every other 4 or even find them drier or less dry than a 3 or a 5) but it's there to help because most importantly there is a lot of Sake out there for us to try.  Once more, obviously a -27 is going to be pretty goddamned sweet!   Icishima's Coy (for a fantastic example, by the way buy this if you see it)



ACIDITY:   (how much organic acid remains)  again, the higher the lesser the chance of a sweeter tasting Sake.



CLASSES OF QUALITY:  "Seimaibuai"

     "Sake" (table sake, "hot" Sake at the mall, Hibachi Steak House Ceramic Jug Sake), Junmai, Junmai Daiginjo, Honjozo etc...

     There are quite a few distinctions.   

(and tons of other varieties outside of this like Nigori, Sparkling Sakes, Namas, aged Sakes but for now here's the basic class structure)

     Here's a chart, it's all about the level of "milling" or polishing the rice grain has under gone- milling takes away the fat, the excesses of the grain, in an effort to get down to heart of the grain; the good stuff, the pure starch-  (chart courtesy of  http://www.sakayanyc.com/  NYC's only "Sake Only" store)

(small anecdote Daiginjo starts at this extremely high level of hand crafted milled rice, reducing the size of the original grain in half; however some very, very extremely high-quality handcrafted and intensely laboriously made Sakes have been fermented from rice polished down to below 20%, basically a grain reduced to the size of the head of a needle, much like this FONT) 

 Here's another chart as well, the internet's full of them but just to give you another perspective-

Ok.

  
      Lesson over.  Important info; the basics are laid out.  Now that you know it, forget it.  There are no pure truths, taste as much as you can.  Don't prejudge by price (Sake is expensive, but good, really good Sake doesn't have to be), milling rate, all these things are there but don't allow them to get in your way.  However the ceramic or plastic, white, volcanically hot jug of "Sake" from the hibachi restaurant, that stuff is awful...

Don't drink that stuff.  

Bad Sake

Want to know more details go to this link below -  From www.TrueSake.com
Author, Beau Timken 

http://www.truesake.com/learnSake101.php

-Brad Russell